Do higher end Treks, Giants, Fugi, etc have cheap bolts and chrome that rust. In the $600-$1200 range?
I ask this earlier, but from the answers, need to clarify.
Both of my bicycles, a Diamondback road bike and a Raleigh hybrid, were bought at the local bike shop. They perform well, but the bolts on the Diamondback have rusted, and the bolts and handle bars on the Raleigh have rusted. I don't live near the ocean. They are stored inside.
I should not have to baby a decent bicycle to keep these item from rusting. They should be stainless steel and thick chrome. Would only cost manufacturer's a few extra dollars to do this.
At what price point, brand, can I expect rust free bolts and chrome?
Thanks all for the answers.
Bikework, as usually you nailed it. Next bike I'll know to "baby" the bolts and make sure the handle bars are aluminum.
No auctions available.Tags: $600$1200, Bolts, cheap, chrome, Fugi, Giants, higher, range, Rust, Treks
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March 5th, 2010 at 12:24 am
I’m a Trek rider (road bike – Madone 4. 5), and I can tell you that NOTHING on a Trek is going to rust, given the conditions you’ve written about.
The lower costs that you’re mentioning ($600-$1200 range) only means that the bikes are made of aluminum, mainly – from a road standpoint – not carbon fiber (like mine). If the bike costs less, it’s because it was manufactured with a less-desireable material than knowledgeable riders would like. It’s also good “entry level” material – you don’t want to purchase a $2500 bike for your first bike, and you don’t want carbon fiber if you don’t know how to ride!
Now, that said – for Mountain bikes – if you ride off-road, you’re going to get wet and muddy – doesn’t matter if you live by the ocean or not. If you get wet and muddy, and don’t spray off and dry off, then you’re going to get corrosion – whether pitted in aluminum or rust on steel/iron parts. Rust happens. It’s a scientific fact!
Now that you know this, if you purchase one of the better mountain bikes, be sure to properly maintain/clean the bike after you get off the trail. . . or it may rust/pit.
Good luck with the bike!
March 5th, 2010 at 12:37 am
Handlebars on good quality bikes are made of aluminum alloy, they don’t rust, the same goes for for the stem,seat post and rims. Chrome is used mostly on cheap bikes. Bolts are another matter. When a bike manufacturer puts a bike together, the parts on the bike are made by different companies. If the parts are of higher quality, the fasteners are usually more rust resistant. One way to reduce rusting is to make sure that all the bolts are lubricated with a thin film of grease, and to make sure the bike is stored in an area with low humidity. Many a bike has been ruined by winter storage in humid garden sheds or damp basements. Brand means nothing, except for the frame all the parts of any bike are made by different companies, even parts with the bike company’s name on them were contracted out.
March 5th, 2010 at 1:10 am
This might be more than you want to know but in the interest of correctness. . .
1) Chrome doesn’t rust. The rust forms on the steel under the chrome and blisters up through the spaces between the chrome molecules. If you are talking about rust inside allen key pockets and the like it is because there is almost no chrome in there. Chrome isn’t paint and it is applied electrostatically. Because of a thing called a “Faraday Cage” the chrome can’t reach in there. Think of filling a sink with water then pushing an inverted glass into the water. The inside of the glass remains dry.
2) The reason you see rust is because you haven’t adequately protected the areas with some kind of coating such as wax or some other stuff. This is a maintenance issue. EVERY bicycle that has ANY steel on it has the potential for corrosion. It doesn’t matter if it is Trek or Crack’n'Fail or Murray or Raleigh or Orbea or any other brand. I can’t think of a single bike that has proven to be free of the opportunity for corrosion.
3) Stainless steel bolts would be significantly more expensive than chromed steel. Replacing every chromed bolt with stainless steel would add the factory cost of a bike which translates into roughly $160 at retail. How do I know? I design bikes for a living and developed a “rust-proof” bike for a customer. It didn’t succeed. Stainless steel also tends to react more quickly with aluminum which causes seizing of parts.
4) Yes, you do have to “baby” a decent bicycle, if what you mean by that is you need to keep it clean and dry and maintained.
You could replace all the nuts and bolts and bits with titanium which would LARGELY eliminate corrosion but it would cost several thousand dollars. . . just for the parts. If you really want to avoid the problem without spending a zillion dollars drip a bit of WD40 into the areas on a weekly basis.
March 5th, 2010 at 1:58 am
you got lowend parts on your bike. my lx,xt, ultegra parts haven’t rusted i’ve been using some of this stuff for almost 20yrs. hdlbars on all my bikes are aluminum no rust. even my 400. 00 1990 specialized hardrock.
March 5th, 2010 at 2:35 am
I have a Giant model Sedona XL. It is way ahead of my Raleigh, which I still have but due to rust etc it is on its last lap of usefulness. I love the Giant, 24 speed, disk brakes, front shocks . . . it is one of the nicest items I have ever owned. It has at least 5000 miles on it by me and the only maintenance I have done is tightened the brakes once and many flat tires.
I solved the flat tire problems by taking the punctured tube, cut off the valve stem. . . then I slit to tube on the inside all the way around. I fit this over the new tube and it gives me a double thickness of rubber.
Most of my flats are caused by thorns.
I may eventually get the Spin Skins or Mr Tuffy inserts but I’m doing good with the extra tube rubber thickness.
I think the bike sold for around $450 new and I got it for $300 and it had hardly been riden.
If it were stolen or run over I would not hesitate to cough up 450 for a new one.
Source(s):
I am not a bike expert but I do ride a lot.